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Frequently Asked Questions
This page of Q&A is divided into four sections:
swim, bike, run, and general questions. Feel free
to submit a question
if you don't see it listed here. Enjoy!
1.
How do I get my wetsuit off quickly during a race? Wetsuit
removal can be challenging. A wetsuit, by its nature, will be tight
on your body and may fight removal. There are certain things,
however, that you can do to help speed up removal. Before going on, it is worth mentioning: buy the right wetsuit.
Research lots of wetsuits before making a purchase.
Find the design elements that you like - break-away zipper, single vs.
double zippers, angle cuts on legs, velcro drawstring anchor, etc. First, you should practice removing the suit in your training - so you
are prepared for the race. You need to be familiar with where the zipper
drawstring will be located, how to unclasp the collar, how to unzip (some
pull down, some pull up, others pull away after a strong tug). Second, before you put the wetsuit on, spray some cooking spray, such as Pam, on your calves and forearms. This helps with the trickiest parts (feet and hands) in removing the suit. Be careful not to spray it on your hands as that will make your hands slippery when you are trying to remove the wetsuit, which would defeat the whole purpose. DO NOT USE PETROLEUM-BASED LUBRICANTS (e.g., Vaseline)- such products destroy neoprene. You can also use a specialty product such as BodyGlide. This roll-on product will help the suit slide off the body a bit quicker. Aside - Alan: You don't need both a cooking spray and BodyGlide, but both can be used as follows: BodyGlide around the neck and shoulders to prevent chafing and a bit around the wrists and on the balls of the ankles to help with wetsuit removal. Then, spray Pam on the lower legs and into the sleeves of the wetsuit. Aside - Dave: Be careful after using cooking spray not to touch your goggles, an easy thing to do. All the cooking spray will do is smear on your goggle lenses, no matter how much you rub them! Not a fun way to start a race. Third,
take off the wetsuit as soon as possible after exiting the water. A wet
wetsuit will come off a lot quicker than a dry wetsuit - but be sure to
check the race rules. Some races don't allow wetsuit removal right
at the swim exit. If not, remove it the first opportunity where it is
allowed. Fourth,
undo the collar first before unzipping. Locate the zipper string
(can be challenging if you are running) and unzip it quickly - you may
need to hold onto the top of the suit with the other hand while pulling on
the zipper. Pull the suit off of your should and down to your waist.
Remove your arms one at a time - completely remove one arm before moving
on to the other arm. Peel it down over your waist down to your knees
(it should be coming off inside out). Now, push the rest of the leg
down over one foot. Now do the other foot. If it is stuck on
one of your feet, try sitting down and pulling your foot out. While
not really adding to the speed, be careful of your fingernails and other
sharp objects when removing your suit. The neoprene can get cuts,
nicks and tears. Also, don't use your zipper draw string as a handle
to pull down your suit - it can break away from the zipper. 2.
Every time I swim, my goggles get fogged up. How can I stop that
from happening? Don't
swim. Seriously. fogged goggles can be a real problem -
especially during a race. There are certain goggles out there that
claim to be anti-fog goggles- but often they fog up
just as much as other goggles. To really help prevent fog from
collecting on the inside of the goggles you need to coat them with an
anti-fog coating. Barracuda, Speedo, TYR and others all make
an anti-fog solution. These do work. But be careful, some of
them sting the eye a bit if water gets into the goggles. The
best solution - and the least expensive - spit. Try this:
rinse your goggles completely in water. Then spit into each lens.
Then, swipe them one time back under water. Shake off the access and
you are good to go. They mat still appear foggy right when you put
them on, but that should disappear once you start swimming. Bike 3.
What is the difference between a triathlon bike and a road bike? Generally,
any bike- a road bike, a mountain bike, a hybrid- can be used in a
triathlon. In fact, some courses (many turns, lot's of climbs and
descents, are slightly better suited for a classic road bike.
However, the bike-leg of a triathlon is basically a time trial.
You want to go as fast as you can, using as little energy as possible.
A triathlon frame has slightly different geometry. This places the
rider in a more "forward" position and tends to keep her or him
slightly lower over the frame. This stretched out and lowered
position will have two effects: (1) less frontal exposure so lower wind
drag; and (2) alters the muscles being used saving the hamstrings a bit
more for the run. On
top of this frame, triathlon-specific components can be added to make the
bike even more of a "tri bike". First, consider aero
bars. The drag created by the air catching on an upright body will
greatly decrease the amount of power that is transferred from the pedals
into resulting forward movement. Aero bars will stretch out the
rider further - lower her or him even more. Next, aero wheels. The
spokes in the conventional wheel act as small wind drags, but the total
effect of 20 to thirty spokes (per wheel) turning around hundreds of times
per minute results in another huge wind drag. After that, you can
move on to smaller "innovations" - aero seat post, aero water
bottle (or a behind-the-saddle cage), etc. 4.
Why are so many triathlon bikes so funny looking?
For the prices you pay for these bikes, they couldn't look like any other bike. No, the reason has to do with speed. In an effort to make bikes "faster", bike designers have re-worked the traditional bike design with three important properties in mind: (1) aerodynamics; (2) weight; and (3) rider position. Many of the bikes you see have flatted, oversized tubes. This is because the airfoil shape of the tubes create less wind drag, resulting in more pedal-power being transferred into forward-motion. For similar reasons, some designers have tried to do away completely with various frame parts - such as the seat downtube. One look at the Kestrel KM40 or a Softride and you will see that an entire frame section is gone - eliminating both the weight and the drag that would normally exist. Also, many manufacturers have forsaken steel for the lighter carbon fiber, titanium and aluminum. However, sometimes these materials must be thicker to make them stronger, thus resulting in interesting shaped frames parts. The last aspect is the geometry of triathlon frames. The designers have tried to place the riders in a more "forward" position, by making the angles a bit sharper. All-in-all these are designed with speed in mind. However, remember, all this will mean nothing without proper training. 5. What should I look for in a triathlon bike? SF Tri Club has
an entire article on this subject in this Newbies edition,
however in summary look for a frame that is in your price range that will
also last you a long time. Fit is very important - not only can
proper fit help avoid injuries, it will make you faster. Finally, as
a general rule, try to get lighter bikes and equipment. We asked Dave
Scott this question and this is what he had to say:
SFTC: For our newest triathletes looking for a bike - any hints?
What should they look for? Any components more important than
others? Run 6.
How do I avoid shin splints and tight muscles after the bike to run
transition? This,
again, is where training comes into play. Bricks (the bike-run
workout) helps prepare your legs for the transition and the better
conditioned your legs are for this phase, the less likely you will suffer
from shin splints and muscle cramps. Also,
near the end of the bike portion - maybe the last half to quarter mile -
be sure to stand on the pedals and stretch your leg muscles, Drop
your heels down to get a good calf stretch and squat over the seat to
loosen those thighs. It will also help if during that last segment,
you put the bike into an easier gear and spin the pedals. This will
help loosen those tightened muscles. Finally, take a few seconds to
stretch the calves, shins and thighs at the transition. Those
seconds you will loose can result in minutes saved later. 7.
When I run long distances I keep getting black toes and my nipples are
so chafed they will even bleed. How do I stop these painful (and
unattractive) side-effects? Alan: I once did a half-Ironman and by mile 10 (out of 56) my inner thighs and
crotch were chafed and raw. Needless to say, the rest of the
triathlon was not that much fun. The chafing is due to friction - a
body part is rubbing against another body part or clothing. This
rubbing will cause friction which will irritate and may even wear-away the
skin. The best way to prevent the irritation is to eliminate the friction
- and the best way to do this is lubrication. Often along marathon
courses, volunteers will be offering tongue depressors dripping with
vaseline! But, this works. A bit of vaseline between the
thighs, or around the nipples, or under the arms or wherever you are
experiencing chafing will really help. I find vaseline to be a bit
messy, so I have switched to Bodyglide. This is a semi-solid stick
that looks like underarm deodorant. You run it on the sensitive spot and
you should be free from chafing. Also, for nipples, you can even
place a band-aid over each one to prevent the chafing. As
for the black toes, you need to check three things: shoes, socks and
toe-nails. Shoes that are too tight will restrict the toes and rub
on them. Shoes that are too loose will move and bang against the
toes. Like Goldilocks, you want the one that fits "just
right". You also want the right pair of socks. Get a good
fitting pair that is on the thin side. Make sure it is synthetic
material so that moisture evaporates away (decreasing chances of
blisters). Finally, if your toe-nails are too long, they will catch
on the shoe and/or sock and tear away - causing black nails. Trim
then back and make sure that they are smooth. General 8.
I'm just starting in the sport, how do I select a race distance? Triathlon
is no different than any other goal - it takes small steps to reach.
One doesn't start running by competing in a marathon - they select a mile
stride, or a 5K (3.1 mile) road race/walk. Then they move up.
The same is true with a triathlon. Don't aim for Ironman Utah as
your first race. There are many triathlons geared for beginning
triathletes. In the Bay Area, the Tri-For-Fun series offers shorter
distances that still challenge the participants. At the most, pick
an Olympic distance event. This consists of a .93 mile swim (1.5km);
25 mile bike (40 km) and a 6.2 mile run (10 km). Certainly these
distances, while definitely challenging, are attainable by every mortal.
After that, you work your way up to other distances - if you want to do
so. Many, probably the majority of, triathletes enjoy competing in
the Olympic distances only. 9. Sometimes in my longer rides, runs and even races, I tend to lose focus and energy - how do I combat that feeling? Of
course, training is the best way to fight off fatigue and mental apathy.
But even the best athletes have low points. The best thing is to
realize that this is not abnormal or a sign of weakness, it is part of the
game of triathlon. When SF Tri Club interviewed Ironman legend and 6
time Hawaii Ironman winner Mark Allen, he had the following to say
on the subject:
SFTC: How did you deal with mental negativity during races?
MA: "Coming off the bike in ¹95 Ironman was the low point.
I was so far back, I felt terrible, I doubted my ability and my thoughts
shifted to everything negative and I almost dropped out. Then I remembered
that I had asked the help of so many people and of the Great Spirit and if
I quit I would not be living my end of the bargain which was to give it
everything I had to give regardless of the outcome. So about 2 miles into
the marathon I had to have a talk with myself and finally committed to
giving it all I had no matter how it turned out. From that moment on my
momentum and strength built." As
you can see, a positive mental attitude is very important and
will help get you through your low points in training and in racing. 9.
What is the best way to stay hydrated during a race? Should I
consume large amounts of water the week before the race? Generally,
you should always be drinking plenty of water - whether it is leading up
to a race or not. Do not excessively increase your water
intake the week before the race. If you want, and if it will be a
warmer-weather race, you can increase it a bit, but overall you will just
pee away any excess by race day. During
the race itself, the important thing is DO NOT WAIT UNTIL YOU ARE THIRSTY
TO START DRINKING. You are already under-hydrated at this point.
Once you hit the bike, start drinking your water. Then, throughout
the ride, consistently continue to drink. Of
course, weather, distance and conditioning are all factors to consider
when deciding how much to drink. If it is an Olympic distance race,
I probably don't go through more than 1 to 2 water bottles the whole bike
ride - more than that and I will have to pee a lot during the run plus I
may even get side cramps. For instance, when San Francisco Triathlon Club
interviewed Ironman Champion Ken Glah, he had this to say on the
subject:
SFTC: What are your nutritional strategies during an Ironman?
KG: I have always tried to drink enough early on to start peeing
on the bike by mile 40 so that I know that I am getting enough fluid in
and that it is being processed and not just sitting in my gut. The actual amount you will need is a bit of a personal factor. You need to experiment during your workouts to tell the exact amount that you will need. Check out this Tri-Psychos article on nutrition to understand some of the ballpark figures to start with. On
the other hand, what you are drinking is almost as important as how much
you are drinking. Recent studies have shown that too much plain
water during a race will actually decrease performance due to a condition
resulting from too much water in the digestive tract leaching the electrolytes away from other parts of your body.
As such, try to hydrate yourself with both water and a
sports drink. I use Ultima Replinisher or Excel diluted with 2 to 3
times the amount of water called for on the package. That being
said, if you are uncertain, I would lean towards the extra hydration than
risk becoming dehydrated during a race. 11.
Should I get a heart rate monitor? If so, should I use
it for training, racing, or both? HRM's
are becoming very popular both in training and in racing. Most pro's
and age group triathletes swear by them. This is for good reason.
HRM's allow you to really monitor your heart's effort and stress.
You may be feeling fine pushing the pace, but your HRM may be able to tell
you if you are likely to maintain that pace or burn yourself out. HRM's
take some getting use to and will require your becoming familiar with your
standard readings, target zones and maximum levels. However,
I do want to point out that it is very possible to become an accomplished
triathlete while never ever using a HRM. Some people have tried them
and just not benefited from them. Others have never used them.
It is a personal choice - like all training and race equipment. When
SF Tri Club recently interviewed “The Man” - Dave Scott, a 6
time Hawaii Ironman winner, we asked him about heart rate monitors.
SFTC: Do you use a heart rate monitor in training? Racing?
What do you feel about using a HRM during an IM distance race?
DS: I think a HRM is a great tool and I use it often. However, I
don't think one should become wed to their HRM. they should learn to
incorporate other tools and techniques in with the HRM. I don't use
one in racing and, in fact, I advise against it. I advise my
students not to use it later in the year because I don't want them so tied
to a set of numbers. 12.
How do I get into the Hawaii Ironman? First of all, if you are truly a triathlon newbie, you may want to set your sights a little lower. Hawaii IM is the Holy Grail of long distance triathletes and it generally takes a year or two at a minimum to get into IM Hawaii shape. However, the short is answer is that you must qualify in an official Hawaii Ironman Qualifying races. Presently there are 23 qualifying races. These are:
The only other real way in to Hawaii is pure luck. IM Hawaii holds a lottery for approximately 200 spots each year, with U.S. triathletes going for 150 spots while International applicants go for the other 50. You can increase your odds of winning a spot in the lottery by joining Ironman's Passport club. The lottery is drawn every year around April 15th. If you don't qualify or make it through the lottery, you could cure cancer or win the Superbowl. The World Triathlon Corporation, the Ironman governing body, always reserves some spaces for human-interest individuals. These range from TV and movie personnel to sports heroes to those overcoming life hardships. Finally, a little known fact which we at SF Tri Club are willing to share with each of you is that down in San Diego there is a half-Ironman event called the San Diego Triathlon Challenge. This event raises funds for the Challenged Athletes Foundation - a great and worthy cause. Every participant in the SDTC must raise funds through sponsorships with the top two fundraisers winning a qualifying spot at Hawaii!! (runner up prizes are pretty great too...including entries and trips to IM Australia, New Zealand and others). 13.
How should I carry water while I am on the bike or out
on a run?
Good question. Hydration is very important and you do not want to be dehydrated during a race. For the bike, you basically have two options - bike mounted hydration systems or on-the-rider systems. Bike mounted systems are basically the old water bottles. You have seen these - water bottles on the inside triangle of the bike frame. However, aerodynamics have not been lost even in the hydration field. Most triathletes either use handlebar systems or behind the seat systems. The handlebar systems, such as Profile, are large, aerodynamic shaped reservoirs with a straw sticking out of the top. The rider dumps the fluid into the top and drinks out of the straw - thus eliminating air drag from bottles on the frame and frame the rider pulling out of her/his aerodynamic tuck position. The other design places bottles behind the rider's butt. X-Lab makes an excellent behind-the-saddle holder. If you are on an extremely long or hot ride, you may want to consider a rider hydration pack. These are simply mini-backpacks that contain a water bladder to hold fluids. The rider wears it like a back pack and drinks from a long tube/straw which runs from the hydration pack to the riders' mouth. Platypus makes excellent hydration packs. Now, with all that in mind, if you are racing be sure to plan your hydration based upon the race-course. Water is heavy and if the course has aid stations every 5 miles, there is no reason to weigh yourself down with two bottles, a handlebar system and a hydration pack. If you are unsure, play it safe and bring plenty. But if there is plenty of opportunities to acquire bottles of water on the course, take enough to last you between stations. Now, on the run, it is a similar choice. There are water bottles and flasks that attach to the runner's waistband or that are incorporated into a belt - like FuelBelt. The runner can also wear a hydration pack on her/his back. Once again, don't overdo it if there is plenty of water/fluids on the course. |
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